| Tip |
| MOSTLY ALL QUESTIONS regarding this chopper are covered in the INSTALLATION MANUAL. READ IT! and then READ IT AGAIN! | |
| To keep your heli looking and running its best, especially in the dusty, sandy Phoenix area, be sure after every flight to spray down the entire heli (minus the servos, gyro, receiver), with rubbing alcohol. (Just in a small spray bottle, ....when EVERYTHING is cool) | |
| The plastic canopy of the Nexus is a bit slick. This tends to make the decals fall off after application. You can sand down the canopy..You'll still have no luck. I talked to Kyosho regarding this. They said to simply put a small bead of thin CA around the edges of the decals. That's exactily what I had to do with my decals to get them to stay on....and 6+ hours later, I was finished. (As you may find out, it is quite a time consuming job.) | |
| Contrary to the installation manual, it is recommended to mount your gyro in front above the receiver, instead of above the fuel tank. This is to prevent the gyro from getting 'gunked up' from the exhaust, and also to keep it away from the engine heat, and not to mention vibration problems on the wires running back to the gyro from the receiver. You can still put foam around the receiver and gyro after they are secured with the double-sided padded tape. | |
| If after about 20 flights, your clutch is making odd noises and is trying to engage even at low rpm, TAKE IT APART AND CLEAN IT. It takes a long time for the clutch to go out, and 9 times out of 10, its just dirty, not shot. | |
| Double check every screw-into-metal point on your heli before takeoff. USE LOCKTITE BLUE ON THEM! Doing so may prevent your demise...or others! | |
| When adjusting the pitch of the main blades, you need to line the flybar up PARALLEL with the SWASH PLATE first. Then get your low, mid, and hi pitch readings off the blades. Position your pitch gauge towards the head...not towards the tip. Be sure when adjusting the ball ends that you leave the same amount of threads showing on each end of the rod. (Common sense). This is what I'm currently using:Low -3 Mid +4-6 High +11Best for Loops & Stall Turns | |
| DO NOT over tighten the frame screws, the ones that screw into the plastic spacers. They will snap those plastic dowels in two with a loud "crack!" Stop screwing the instant the bottom of the screws come in contact with the plastic frame. | |
| **I do HIGHLY RECOMMEND getting the upgraded metal spacer set to replace those crappy plastic ones. They're only at the most 19.99 and they WILL NEVER BREAK. Plus, they come with all allen head screws instead of the hex head self-tapps. WATCH OUT..DONT OVER TIGHTEN 'EM. The heads can still break off. Just snugg 'em up with blue locktite. | |
| Double, Triple Check EVERY BALL LINKAGE connection on the head, such as the mixing levers, all stabilizer control rods, and pitch rods. If even one is the slightest bit loose, your heli will come down...AND FAST..(I am speaking from experience here.) Replace the ball ends and save the repair costs. | |
| BEFORE EACH FLIGHT: oil the tail sliding ring, the pitch adjuster, and the swash plate ball. That means after EVERY FLIGHT. |
| Make sure the coupler for the tail pitch adjuster rod screws is very tight - use loctite and check every time before flight. |
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